YOUR ULTIMATE WILDLIFE SAFARI
On the Trail of India’s Big Cats
Conveying an almost mythical status, the snow leopard, or ghost cat, is a much sought-after sight. Residing at altitudes above 11,500 feet (3,500m), they are a particularly challenging quarry. Though the exact number is unknown due to their elusiveness and adverse terrain, it is estimated that approximately 4,000 snow leopards remain in the wild, only 300 of these residing in the mountains surrounding Ladakh.
Descending from the mountains, India’s golden plains are home to the largest of the big cats: the tiger. Though Bengal tigers are only the third-largest of the tiger species (surpassed by the Malay and Siberian sub-species), at 10.5 feet (3.2m) and weighing as much as 650 pounds (295kg), their scale is still spectacularly impressive. For those who have been on an African safari, this is almost 50 percent larger than even the biggest of lions.
Interestingly, snow leopards are actually more closely related to their stripy compatriots than their African namesakes, though their natural habitats could not be more different. Tigers reside in the warmer lowlands of India, Bhutan, and several other countries, while snow leopards dwell at altitude, in the snowy peaks and valleys of the Himalayas.
Despite this disparity of environments, both can be found on a single Indian journey, as discovered by Rothschild Travel Designer, Viji Krishna:
The Snow Leopards of the Himalayas
Chasing the Chimera
If you dream of seeing a snow leopard, you will no doubt have spotted a vital clue in the name. A trek to Hemis National Park in the dead of winter is a fantasy that will include frozen feet and require a touch of foolhardy determination.
The snow leopard is so elusive that a couple of weeks hiking cold and rugged terrain may result in a mere momentary twitch of an ear at such a great distance you won’t be entirely sure you did not merely witness a hare.
I knew all of this, and I still boarded the flight to Leh.
The reality of a snow leopard safari sets in soon after you land and drive to Hemis National Park… there is the sheer elevation with the accompanying chance of altitude sickness. Thankfully, the four-hour hike with luggage that I experienced on previous trips is no longer necessary, a one-hour drive along windy roads now transporting visitors to the village of Rumbak with ease and comfort.
I may be fearless, but I always err on the side of common sense and opted for riding a mule to the top instead of walking.
As an urban dweller, I know to move when I hear someone honking. The response is automatic. The environment on the roof of the world requires an entirely different set of reactions. Nothing can prepare you for the long hours of waiting to spot a snow leopard. When you come this far, your guide had better be the best in the business.
My guide filled my experience with local folklore and rich insights into the full range of wildlife that shares the Himalayas with the snow leopard. We spotted ibex, wolf, blue sheep, Tibetan hares, and splendid migratory birds. We also hiked to monasteries, gasped at soaring cliffs, and watched stunning backdrops appear through the smoke of our condensing breath.
In reality, my snow leopard trek was free of all signs of any snow leopard. Then, on the very last day, as we packed up to hike down the village, I was clinging to the last vestige of hope that we would spot this cat colloquially referred to as the grey ghost.
As I was sipping my tea, my guide mounted the telescope on the stand and did a quick survey. He summoned me with urgent hand gestures, his entire being signaling urgency and his eyes glued to the scope lenses.
I did not dare to think it… I did not dare to breathe.
As soon as my eyes focused the prize was clear. The snow leopard was walking directly towards me, Pieter Matthiessen’s “uncompromising yellow eyes, wired into the depths of its unfathomable spirit” gazing right into my soul, a catwalk of snow and heartbreakingly blue sky surrounding him, tail swaying with the joy of having found an ibex for dinner.
Take a number, Mr. Snow Leopard, I almost said out loud. If there were any prizes for elation on that mountain that day, I was first in line.
A Rothschild Safaris Snow Leopard Adventure
Hunting a snow leopard is an activity that strays into territory that does not allow for safari lodges, couples massages at sundown, or guaranteed sightings. But this does not mean that delights are not waiting to surprise you in the mountains. Incredible guides, fascinating culture, and opportunities to make an impact on snow leopard conservation magically turn this experience into one of the most exhilarating wildlife safaris of a lifetime.
The Snow Leopard Sightings Window
Why winter? You might be tempted to ask. There are two reasons:
A snow leopard is almost preternaturally good at disappearing. To tip the odds, even a tiny little bit, we have to be smart and practical.
In theory, the less fortunate animals on the food chain make it down to the valley to graze on lower pastures during the winter months. The snow leopard then follows its prey down the trails for a relatively easy hunt at dawn and dusk.
Where we Court Snow Leopard
The grey ghost is solitary and elusive, and each cat’s territory will cover up to 621 miles2 (1,000 km2). While it has been seen in countries throughout Central Asia, Ladakh in Northern India is the most secure location for a responsible snow leopard trek.
Ladakh
The highest plateau of Jammu and Kashmir is a cold desert that is called home to a surprising number of wildlife species. While the state has a Muslim majority, the ancient kingdom of Ladakh is a Buddhist enclave often referred to as ‘Little Tibet’.
Hemis National Park
Hemis is home to over 200 snow leopards concentrated in the Rumbak catchment area where they feast on prey like Great Tibetan sheep, blue sheep, and Ladakhi urial. No vehicles are allowed inside the park.
Other wildlife includes:
Ladakhi urial, mountain weasel, Himalayan mouse hare, Himalayan marmot, Asiatic ibex, Tibetan wolf, the Eurasian brown bear, and the red fox. Also excellent for bird watchers, the park includes the golden eagle, Himalayan griffon vulture, lammergeyer vulture, robin accentor, Tickell’s leaf warbler, chukar, black-winged snow finch, Himalayan snowcock, and others.
Hemis is delightfully pollution and noise-free.
Also see:
The breathtaking Pangong Tso Lake and a plethora of monasteries including the 400-year-old Hemis Monastery. Tribal villages also lie within the park.
Ladakh is also famous for adventure sports, with everything from mountaineering, cycling, trekking, and river rafting vying for adrenaline junkies’ attention.
Visit in late winter, February or March.
A Day in Rumbak Village
Widely regarded as the best destination for snow leopard trekking, the idyllic village of Rumbak lies high in the mountains, about one hour from Leh at an altitude of 13,125 feet (4,000m). Enveloped by the towering mountains, it offers spectacular views of the escarpments and valleys, and is the ideal vantage point from which to survey the slopes in the hope of spotting a snow leopard.
With less than 250 residents, Rumbak Village is wonderfully secluded and peaceful, surrounded by the enchanting beauty of the majestic mountains. Rumbak Wildlife Lodge, a charmingly humble yet wonderfully adequate lodge situated in a river valley. The superb staff are both professional and charmingly hospitable, attending to your every need. Guides are on constant alert, even here at the lodge, and a muted alarm will be whispered around guests if a snow leopard happens to wander into the view of the powerful telescopes situated around the property.
Designed and constructed to sensitively blend into the landscape, Rumbak Wildlife Lodge allows you to further acclimatize in absolute cozy comfort, nourishing you with traditionally inspired and international gourmet cuisine. By night, a wondrous spectacle unfolds in the skies above. With no light pollution but for the glimmer emerging from the lodge, the nocturnal heavens illuminate with a stunning cascade of stars and galaxies. Such pristine stargazing is rarely found anywhere else in the world.
Snow Leopard Conservation
Snow leopards are endangered because their body parts are valuable in traditional Asian medicine. Humans who live with the snow leopards can make an incredible amount of money if they kill one, and as they are competing for survival with the cats when they push their livestock into snow leopard habitat, sadly it can make excellent sense for them to hunt the snow leopard.
Rothschild Safaris works with projects that find ways for snow leopards to co-exist with humans and share a habitat. Community-based conservation breaks the cycle of poverty, creates incentives for humans to protect local wildlife and ecosystems, and educates future generations on the value of protecting this majestic, elusive cat.
A Rothschild Safaris Tiger Adventure in India
As a young girl, the onset of summer in the North and North East of India was eagerly awaited. Every year we would take a three-day jaunt to one of the many tiger reserves (India has around 50 of them), and this was a highlight in my childhood calendar.
In the heat, the elusive cats would pad silently on giant feet to bathe in trickling waterfalls and lap from cool pools of water. As the parks have never had clearly defined boundaries and the tigers wander vast territories, it was tricky to spot them. Finding a tiger in search of shade and a drink felt like a triumph.
Tigers have their own code of honor, and they do not bother themselves with manmade rules, regulations, and borders.
Of course, this has inevitably resulted in occasional unplanned encounters. One of my most vivid early memories began with a vague recollection of wandering off from our safari car. The final few moments of my little walk continue to pull sharply into focus. Across all the intervening years, I still sense the absolute power of the majestic cat as we locked eyes for a small eternity before I was scooped to safety by our driver.
Neighboring villages have watchmen taking turns to watch their livestock. A hungry and thirsty tiger is a determined tiger and so, the mornings are invariably occupied with stories of lost and damaged property, a slain cow, a disappeared goat, and, in some tragic though necessary cases, a dead tiger.
What began as a primal instinct to protect evolved over time to include the spoils of hunting. As humans’ greed grew, the tiger population withered.
The history of humans and tigers co-habiting can be traced back to the Indus Valley 5,000 years ago. The Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa included tigers in the culture of their civilization, and since then almost every religion on earth has tied religious symbolism to this majestic creature. In Hinduism, Goddess Durga is depicted riding a tigress in battle, while in Buddhism, it symbolizes anger. Numerous Asian cultures have objects with tigers in the form of amulets, considered protectors of the good and an enemy of evil. Tigers abound throughout both mythology and Western literature. From Shere Khan to Calvin’s lovable friend Hobbes, humans are drawn to the beauty, strength, and individual nature of tigers.
It is a testament to the might of our avarice that these creatures who were so integral to my childhood might not share the planet with my own grandchildren.
Each time I hear of a poaching incident, I remember the poem ‘The Tyger’ by William Blake
‘When the stars threw down their spears
And water’d heaven with their tears:
Did he smile his work to see?
Did he who made the Lamb make thee?
Did he who made the Lamb make thee?’
If Blake were to write his poem today, would he cast Tigers as lambs and title the poem ‘The Human’?
We work hard to find the most dedicated operators and conservationists to help us plan our tiger safaris in India. To manage expectations, ensuring that there is ample time to enjoy an immersive experience and utilize every chance you have to see the exotic feline, we engage the foremost naturalists, scientists, and lead guides in the business.
When to Travel
There is no denying that there is only one boss on a tiger safari. A tiger takes direction from no one, and it will always have the final say on where, when, how, and if any sighting takes place. Our job is to make sure you enjoy your tiger safari in comfort, enjoying the many other creatures and sights while you await your audience with jungle royalty. Taking into account the rainy season and times of extreme heat, the months of March to June and October to December are usually considered the optimal times to travel.
To increase your tiger odds, we always suggest allowing for three or four days on safari.
Your Tiger Safaris
You dream of seeing a tiger. We will stack the odds in your favor… and then we will remember that tigers are highly secretive, masters of camouflage, and range across large territories of thick forest and inaccessible terrain. We will, however, prepare you for an incredibly satisfying and life-changing safari in the jungle.
While our excellent guides have their ears on the jungle drums and work hard to find your tiger, they will also introduce you to other members of the jungle court. The exotic Indian wilderness is filled with other animals of Asia, including leopards, bears, elephants, buffalo, rhino, wolves, impressive herds of chital, Samar deer, and nilgai as well as incredible birds, butterflies, and monkeys.
Regardless of a tiger sighting, you can expect to experience the extraordinary and enjoy a highly rewarding safari experience.
Into the Tiger’s Realm
The five surviving subspecies of wild tigers that exist in the wild can be found in India, Nepal, China, Russia, Bhutan, Myanmar, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Thailand, Sumatra (Indonesia) and Malaysia.
The Bengal tiger can be found in India, Nepal, Bhutan, and Bangladesh, they rule vast swathes of India. Today there are 39 designated tiger reserves throughout the 19 Indian states where tigers roam.
Madhya Pradesh
Bandhavgarh National Park
This wildlife sanctuary lies at the core of the Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh and is home to the highest density of tigers. It was here that the last wild tiger was captured by Maharaja Martand Singh of Rewa in 1951. The saying goes that you are lucky to spot a tiger in every park in India other than Bandhavgarh… where it is unlucky NOT to spot a tiger.
Other Wildlife includes:
Chital deer, sambar deer, barking deer, macaques, langurs, wild boar, nilgai antelope, four-horned antelope, Indian Bison, wild dog, leopard, blue bull, Indian fox, jackal, wolves and sloth bears.
Also see:
Bandhavgarh Fort, which is perched atop a 600-meter-high cliff overlooking the Vidhyan Mountains.
Visit from April to June.
Kanha National Park
This magnificently expansive tiger reserve offers expansive grassy meadows surrounded by sal forests. The perfect playground for Bengal Tigers, you may be excused for thinking you are journeying through the pages of a Rudyard Kipling story.
Other Wildlife includes:
Hard-ground barasingha, an endangered species of deer only found here. Other animals regularly sighted include chital, gaur, three-striped palm squirrel, common langur, jackal, wild pig, blackbuck, striped hyena, leopard, mouse deer, porcupine, chinkara, sambar, Indian bison, and ant-eating pangolin. Also, keep an eye out for a significant number of birds ranging from peacocks to vultures.
Visit from April to June
Pench National Park
Though a lesser-known reserve, Pench National Park is an unsung beauty and home to around 50 tigers, attracting fewer tourists as the dense forest makes it more challenging to spot cats.
Other Wildlife includes:
Chital, Jungle Cat, Wolf, Indian Leopard, Gaur, Four-horned Antelope, Sloth Bear, and much other wildlife. Also, a great variety of birds like Crow Pheasant, Peafowl, Pintail, Lesser Whistling Teal, Indian Roller, Wagtail, Munia, Waterfowl, Blue Kingfisher, Crimson-breasted Barbet, Red-Vented Bulbul are found here.
Also see:
Visit the little hamlet of Pachdhar in Seoni, known for its community of potters. Watch the Kumhaars create incredible items like matkis (earthen vessels), gullak (piggy banks), diyas (lamps), Kulhar (chai glasses), and more from organic material.
Visit from March to May
Satpura National Park
Satpura is relatively new (established in 1981) and only allows 12 vehicles at any one time, providing an air of exclusivity, and low tourist numbers.
Other wildlife includes:
Hyena, leopards, gaur, sambar, chital, barking deer, chin Kara, mouse deer, wild boars, wild dogs, bears, blackbucks, foxes, porcupines, and flying squirrels.
Also see:
Satpura is the only park that allows guests to trek on foot, and in summer tigers may be found taking a dip in the Sonbhadra River.
Visit in April or May
Rajasthan
Ranthambore National Park
One of India’s largest and most famous parks Ranthambore is the darling of wildlife photography and the cats here have been protected from hunters through Project Tiger since 1973. At the time of the park’s inception, less than 20 tigers survived, but today, surveys suggest that 80 now live in Ranthambore. The tigers are used to jeeps and people and may even spoil visitors with the rare and unusual treat of watching them hunt.
Other Wildlife includes:
Leopards, jungle cats, sloth bears, hyenas, Indian foxes, jackals, and crocodiles.
Also see:
Three lakes and a large number of ancient ruins lie in wait throughout the park. The nearby Kuno National Park is also the location of India’s cheetah repopulation project.
Visit in April or May
Uttarakhand State
Jim Corbett National Park
Established in 1936 the park was dedicated to hunter-turned-conservationist Jim Corbett in the 1950s. It lies in the foothills of the Himalayas, and the terrain is correspondingly varied.
Other Wildlife includes:
Spot leopards, jungle cats, fishing cats, sloth bears, jackals, Bharal, goral, Himalayan tahr, serow, chital, sambal, and barking deer.
Also see:
Corbett is known as an elephant park with a good chance of spotting wild elephants on the Ramganga River.
Visit from March to June (do prepare for dusty roads)
Tiger Conservation
What is a Tiger?
The largest species of big cat, tigers range from between 8.5 and 10 feet (2.6 and 3 m) from tip to tail and weigh between 300 and 620 pounds (135-280 kgs) — with an orange coat that is patterned with broad black stripes. Tigers have black ears with a winking white spot on the back (thought to be a deterrent for adversaries approaching from the rear), powerful forepaws, and a long-banded tail. Although their discordant orange color, which makes them easy to spot with our human eyes in the green foliage, may seem counterintuitive, for their prey, which views the world monochromatically, their patterned coast renders them almost invisible, as is evidenced in David Attenborough’s wonderful documentary, Life in Color.
Extinct Tigers
Tigers live for between 14 and 17 years in the wild. Sadly, the trade in illegal tiger products persists, though numbers are encouragingly increasing, as is the level of protection they receive from poaching.
- Bali Tiger (Panthera tigris balica) – declaring extinct: 1940
- Central Asian Tiger (Panthera tigris virgata) —this tiger might belong to the same sub-species as the Siberian tiger – declaring extinct: 1970
- Javan Tiger (Panthera tigris sondaica) – declaring extinct: 1980
- South China Tiger – declaring extinct: 1990
Extant Tigers
- Indian Tiger or Royal Bengal Tiger (Panthera tigris tigris)
India, Nepal, Bhutan and Bangladesh - Indo-Chinese tiger (Panthera tigris corbetti)
Thailand and Peninsular Malaysia, Myanmar, Southern China, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam - Siberian or Amur Tiger (Panthera tigris altaica)
Far East Russia - Sumatran Tiger (Panthera tigris sumatrae)
The Indonesian island of Sumatra - South China Tiger (Panthera tigris amoyensis) found in China
Tigers found in Peninsular Malaysia are a separate subspecies Panthera tigris jacksoni.
There are more tigers alive in captivity in the United States than there are wild tigers on the entire planet.
- Tigers are vulnerable to extinction. Spotting a wild tiger is both an incredible privilege and an emotional experience that is difficult to describe in words.
Threats to the Survival of Wild Tigers
- Relentless poaching for use in traditional Chinese medicine
- Retaliatory killings
- Habitat loss
