FROM THE MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA
Experiential Peru
Peru has a fine reputation for adventurous journeys of historical discovery.
The Land of the Inca still resonates with echoes from the past, not least atop the Cordillera de los Andes at the captivating site of Machu Picchu. This renown is by no means unjustified, and even tracing the well-trodden paths to the more frequented locations provides a rich and inspiring adventure.
However, Peru provides a varied tapestry of exploration, drifting through culture and crafts, adrenalin-fuelled adventures and a tantalizing union of traditional and contemporary cuisine. While many visit the mountainous nation for its history, Peru is a destination with something for everyone.
Foodie Tour of Lima
Peru’s culinary history is almost as fascinating as its architectural legacy. Grains such as chia and quinoa have found popularity around the world, the country has spawned several superfoods including lucuma, and even its most humble produce, the lowly potato, is found in innumerable varieties. Peruvian food is distinct among South American cuisine, and it has upheld its precious cultural history vehemently. Not without its influences, Spanish, Italian and Asian nuances can be found, but in recent years, leading chefs, particularly in the capital of Lima, have drawn on traditional roots (both figuratively and literally) to form the foundation of their haute cuisine. Whether it is incorporating ingredients cultivated by the Inca or reinterpreting national dishes, the leaders of Peru’s culinary kingdom are introducing centuries-old dishes to a modern and global dining audience.
Lima provides an abundance of choice, and a guided walking tour of the city will take you from local night markets where you can sample a wealth of curious domestic produce, to local side-street cafés and gourmet restaurants, all influenced by hundreds of years of agriculture.
“Peru has many familiar, yet distinctly different foods,” says Travel Designer and Peru expert, Ruthie Detwiler. “Ceviche, the national dish, comprises lightly cured fish – usually sea bass – served with boiled corn and sweet potatoes.
“Speaking of potatoes, Peru has 4,000 varieties! While many will be very similar to those we have at home, others are distinctly unique.
“Meats are also somewhat different, with alpaca and guinea pig making up the more popular protein sources, and both well worth trying for the more adventurous diner.
“Purple corn looks similar to regular sweet corn – except for the color, of course – but has a far denser, starchier texture and almost nutty flavor.”
Into the Past
Expanding upon Peru’s gastronomical history, an excursion to the remarkable site of Moray reveals the Inca’s advanced farming practices. Estimated to be anywhere between 1,000 and 1,500 years old, the terraced depression about 30 miles (50km) from Cusco displays acute knowledge of agriculture. Irrigation methods, microclimates, and intelligent building methods were integrated into the site, with each terrace providing ideal conditions for specific crops.
Even more remarkable is that each terrace has been created with the soil of varying regions, the Inca bringing dirt to the site from different regions and altitudes that they knew to suit certain plants. The site’s location, structure and depth also create varied temperatures, with a change of almost 10 degrees (5ºC) from the upper terraces to the bottom.
Touring this astounding site alludes to the profound knowledge of the Inca. And when the history has been explored, there is also the opportunity to sample the crops and dishes that would have been provided by one of the world’s most extraordinary farmlands.
Echoes of the Inca
Machu Picchu gains the greatest accolades of Peru’s archeological landmarks, but is by no means the only location of archeological significance. Phuyupatamarca, Wiñaywayna and Runkurakay are just a handful of staggering Incan ruins, the people’s expertise in masonry standing the test of time, with immense boulders carved into geometric forms to tessellate in magnificent walled structures.
Peru is seismically unstable, receiving periodical earthquakes that, on occasion, cause damage to modern structures. These ancient and resilient ruins have been tested over many centuries by the earth’s rumblings. When such quakes occur, it is said by observers to cause these vast stone blocks to ‘dance’, trembling and clattering against one another before falling back into place when the tremors subside. Their size, weight and the impressive, almost unfathomable craftsmanship employed in their construction have all but evaded the rigors of the rumbles.
One reason for the lack of attention these magnificent sites receive is due to their accessibility, but the Inca Trail provides access to the more committed traveler.
For a shorter excursion, Ollyantambo also has some fascinating ruins, as Ruthie Detwiler discovered on her recent journey:
“During the Incan Empire, in the early 14th century, Ollantaytambo was the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti. It is more than just the departure point for the train to Machu Picchu. We took the advice of our guide and arrived early enough to see the Inca ruins before departing on the train to Machu Picchu.”
The Inca Trail
The Inca Trail is a marathon, in the most literal sense, spanning the same distance of 26 miles (42km). Though an average competitor might complete a road marathon in six hours, for the Inca Trail significantly more time is required. Over the course of four days, the trail hike winds through mountain passes, ancient ruins, and expansive valleys, ascending to over 13,800 feet (4,200 meters). This significant altitude increases the challenge multifold, and though one shouldn’t embark on the undertaking lightly, with correct preparation and an average level of fitness, it is highly accessible.
While Machu Picchu can be visited by train and bus, the scenery and landmarks of the Inca Trail are only attainable on foot. This drastically reduces the number of visitors, creating exclusivity and heightening the mysticism of these wondrous ruins. Escorted by guides and porters, one is able to walk in the footprints of the lost civilizations, tracing their route along breathtaking pathways between temples and towns to emerge at the epicenter of their empire, Machu Picchu.
A Kaleidoscopic Nation
Purple corn, blue potatoes and vibrant textiles all add to Peru’s colorful image, but the country’s canvas of color casts its reach across its cities and mountainsides.
Vinicunca, or Rainbow Mountain, is another of Peru’s iconic landmarks. Tracing a ridgeline, visitors can look out upon this wonder of geology. Formed over the course of millennia, varied mineral deposits create a dramatically contrasted array of hues on the hillsides, ranging from rich reds and terracottas, to pastel greens and deep blues. Lying about three hours from Cusco, a walk of about three miles (5km) is required to reach the ridgeline and optimal observation spot for this spectacular natural phenomenon.
“Our driver and guide knew the back way to skip the crowds and we drove through villages and fields of llamas and alpacas,” says Ruthie, sharing an insider’s tip. “We were lucky enough to see all the colors as the sun came out just as we summited.”
Descending to the coast, Lima’s neighboring districts of Miraflores and Barranco are only recommended as a short stop-over for onward travel. However, if you find yourself with a day or so to pass in the capital, these districts offer culture, cuisine, retail, and parklands.
Miraflores is Lima’s wealthiest district and the center of commerce and leading hotels. Peppered with verdant lawns and parks, Miraflores is wonderful to explore on foot, with an exquisitely landscaped boardwalk fringing the coastline, and plenty of markets, museums, and historical sites to visit.
Vibrant creativity pervades the nearby suburb of Barranco, a host of artisans residing in what is affectionately regarded as Lima’s bohemian capital. Colorful murals adorn buildings and an array of museums and galleries display everything from local crafts to international artworks. Strolling the streets, one can find cafes and restaurants frequented by locals, artisan stores, and the city’s creative personality resonating down every footpath and alleyway.
The Iconic Citadel in Style
No Peru journey is complete without visiting Machu Picchu, but doing so in Rothschild style significantly enriches the excursion.
The luxurious Hiram Bingham transports passengers by rail from Cusco, through the breathtaking Sacred Valley, to the entrance of Machu Picchu. As they wind their way upwards, the Pullman-style carriages of the Hiram Bingham pass alongside the Urubamba River, past towering, snow-capped mountains, with spectacular views presented through every window or the open-air viewing platform at the tail of the train.
Guests are welcomed with a cocktail, presented a gourmet lunch onboard, and regaled with traditional music over Pisco sours on the return journey.
After making the ascent on foot, Leora Rothschild and her family opted for this more luxurious and relaxing return journey on their recent Peruvian adventures:
“Descending from the heights of Machu Picchu, we decided to give our legs a rest and take a luxurious and exciting train ride back to Cusco, happening upon a vibrant, if impromptu, party.
“We left Machu Picchu in traditional style on the Hiram Bingham train back to Cusco, a journey of approximately four hours of absolute fun that included fine dining, cocktails, mocktails for my girls, and some really good dancing.
“We had quite the party train with a group of trekkers that had just come off a three-day hike, so the train rocked all the way back to Cusco! I can highly, highly recommend the experience.”
It is, however, the destination that outshines even this exclusive journey. One of the world’s seven wonders, Machu Picchu remains steeped in mystery, hypotheses only offering some semblance of its history and purpose. While a close approximation of Machu Picchu’s tale is known, much is left disputed, and a portion completely lost in the mists of time, leaving visitors to venture not only to its summit but also into their own imaginations as to what it must have been like when active. This sense of wonder is only heightened by the citadel’s almost impossible location, situated atop the mountain from which it gains its name.
Unlike those taking the more laborious ascent to the summit, passengers on the Hiram Bingham can enjoy the experience more fully, with plenty of energy remaining to wander the grounds, hear the tales from attentive and knowledgeable guides, and return to the train for the sedate, opulent and pampered return to Cusco.
Exploring the Amazon
Few contemplate the Amazon when considering Peru’s possibilities. Not only does the Amazon Rainforest cover over 60 percent of the country, the Amazon River’s source also lies within Peru.
To the north of Peru, the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve spans over five million acres and is the largest protected flooded forest in the world. Winding majestically through this sanctuary, the Amazon is the shared superhighway of wildlife, indigenous tribes, and a small handful of luxurious cruises. Drifting along one of the world’s largest rivers aboard these lavish vessels, one can observe the jungle in comfort, treated to gourmet cuisine, and with a fully-appointed cabin offering views of the passing landscape.
Leora shares her firsthand experience of her Amazonian adventures:
“The vessels are so luxurious you don’t realize you are on a boat. Food was perfection every single day, served with views of the Amazon passing by the window, the lush forest rising from its banks.
“Venturing onto land, we explored the jungle. Our guide’s knowledge was phenomenal. We spotted tiny bats, boa constrictors, tarantulas (not my favorite, but that’s part of the rainforest), incredible bird life, monkeys, sloths, and much more.
“We stopped at traditional villages and met the warm and accommodating locals, gladly welcoming us into their homes. Our days were spent riding bikes through the rainforest, kayaking, fishing for piranha (not me – I kept asking them to put the fish back quickly!), spending quality time in the skiffs, and enjoying a surprise gourmet lunch on the river.”
Captivating and intriguing, the rainforest remains tantalizingly out of reach, one’s curiosity itching to plunge into the darkened depths of the jungle, but explorations of this spectacular ecosystem are included.
Over 2,500 animal species, discounting insects and aquatic life, are known to dwell in the dense jungle, with more being discovered each year. The towering trees make much of the riverbanks impenetrable, but at certain locations, passengers can alight, taking a guided tour through the rainforest with a naturalist, or visit one of the traditional tribal villages to learn more of a lifestyle that has remained almost unchanged for centuries.
Sacred Valley by Water
No such tranquil cruises exist in the heights of the Andes, but a waterborne perspective is possible, and no less arresting.
The tumultuous Urubamba River cascades through the Sacred Valley, as vital a source of irrigation now as it was for the early settlers; the Inca, and, before them, the Tiwanaku. Comparatively shallow along its course, it lacks in both depth and calm for cruisers, but boat trips can be taken for the more daring traveler.
Whitewater rafting along the immense canyons carved by the Urubamba and the valleys through which it passes presents a dramatic vista not fully appreciated from dry land, and the exhilaration of the journey adds a further dimension of excitement.
“For a little variety,” recalls Leora, “we enjoyed a half-day of whitewater rafting along the Urubamba River which was stunning, taking in the scenery and sites of the Inca people along our journey.”
Taking in the Ollantaytambo portion of the Urubamba River, the rafting excursion begins on the calmer upper waters, passing beneath the towering Salkantay mountain reaching 20,574 feet (6,271m) into the sky. As the river descends more swiftly, the conclusion of this full day of rafting is through energetic and thrilling rapids, the river guides expertly navigating the channels and churning waters. Concluding with a traditional Peruvian dinner, rafting may not align with the more historical aspects of this fascinating destination, but it offers an incredible perspective that few others will attain.
Culture & Creativity
There are times when journeying through Peru that one would be forgiven for thinking they had stepped into a living museum. Young girls in traditional attire walk their llamas through the ancient lanes, bustling markets trading as they have for decades, and the origins of the city of Cusco itself dating back almost three thousand years.
Explorations of this captivating culture come in a myriad of ways, but one of the best is through its crafts. A resident of the town of Chinchero, Nilda Callañaupa is regarded as the world ambassador of traditional Peruvian textiles, her fabrics, methods, and creations predating the textiles of the Inca, gleaning on the crafts of the Wari and Paracas people. Callañaupa’s humble workshop employs a team of talented weavers, all adhering to the traditional methods that she has diligently researched and upheld as a third-generation craftswoman.
Like the chefs of the big cities, many contemporary artists draw on their origins, creating textiles, ceramics, and artwork that draw inspiration from tradition. Galleries display modern Peruvian creations, while museums reflect their historical counterparts, and this fascinating dichotomy provides greater insight into the evolution of Peru’s culture.
With the Spanish invasion came Catholicism, but the conquistadors were never able to erase all that came before them. The Pagan-esque ceremonies and traditions of Peru’s original people endured, and no cultural immersion is complete without witnessing or taking part in a ritual. Whether being swathed in smoke by a shaman or sipping thick, rich traditional cacao, these experiences heighten one’s sense of connection to the warm and endearing people of Peru, and deepen the mysticism of this incredible nation.
With several of our team exploring the diverse experiences of Peru, Rothschild Safaris has a wealth of firsthand knowledge, enabling us to handcraft an itinerary that is entertaining, fulfilling, and rewarding. Throughout the country, we have selected the finest properties to partner with, opening this captivating nation to our guests without foregoing luxury.
They say a journey begins with a single step, but where that step can take you expands exponentially in Peru. Will it take you to the lofty heights of the Andes? Will it transport you through the pages of ancient history? Or will it carry you inwards, discovering an affinity with the natural wonders that surround you on a sensory journey that transcends expectation?
Discuss your Peruvian explorations with one of our Travel Designers.
